MADAGASCAR
Beyond the Horizon: A Traveler's Quest for Nature's Rarest Beauties
Welcome to Madagascar, an island where the wild reigns supreme and nature unveils its most extraordinary wonders - a land that defies expectations and feels untouched by time.
In Northern Madagascar, adventure whispers through ancient forests and dances across turquoise waves. Here, mist-shrouded mountains embrace emerald jungles, and golden shores meet an endless sea of blue. Lemurs leap through sunlit canopies, while hidden waterfalls tumble in places only the intrepid dare to wander. It’s a land where time slows, inviting you to drift into its rhythms, to follow winding paths beneath towering baobabs and let the wild beauty of Madagascar weave its magic. For those willing to explore, Northern Madagascar offers a journey as enchanting as a dream, unfolding one breathtaking moment at a time.
Joins us as we unveil Madagascar’s marvels. If you’re looking for untouched beauty and true authenticity, you’re in the right place.
Madagascar is a big Country, its roads are usually not in the best conditions, and domestic air travel is scarce. That’s why this two weeks itinerary is only going to be about the very North, with a final stop in the bustling Capital, Antananarivo - or Tana, as the locals call it. In order to travel through a larger portion of the Country, we recommend at least three weeks, or you’d be too rushed to fully experience Madagascar’s magic.
Day 1 - Set sail and explore the majestic ocean of Nosy Be archipelago
Land in Nosy Be (NOS), a picturesque island in the North East of the Country. From here, leave for a few days sailing in the incredible surroundings of the island. If you like scuba diving, you can have a croisière plongée, a diving cruise. You can in fact rent a catamaran with a diving instructor, a cook and a skipper! We couldn’t recommend more to do this with Menabe Plongée. Its owner, Nicolas, is an outstanding diving instructor, incredibly knowledgeable of Nosy Be archipelago’s best diving spots, and - even more importantly - a wonderful human being who loves to share everything he’s learned over the years about the Country, its culture and history. You can either rent the boat for yourself or take part in a diving expedition with other travelers (obviously this second option will have a fixed calendar).
Imagine yourself spending your day diving in crystal clear water and relaxing on a catamaran, completely by yourself. In other words, a dream come true.
Day 2 - Nosy Antsoha and the cute lemurs
Keep sailing, diving, relaxing, eating! We don’t think it can get better than this. Between a dive and another, ask Nicolas or your captain to visit Nosy Antsoha and its incredible lemur’s population.
Day 3 - On the way to Nosy Iranja, the turtle island
Wake up and spend another beautiful day on your boat - an experience by itself. Eat the freshest fish you have ever had, sunbathe during navigation and take all the chances you can to explore the incredible marine life.
After a few more unforgettable dives, take an afternoon to explore this incredible island. Walk through the stretch of sand to visit Kaps Island while the tide is high, and don’t forget to walk back before it disappears in the sky blue water. Visit the village, snorkel and hike up to the lighthouse to watch the sunset before heading back to the boat. If you’re visiting Nosy Iranja on your own (without sleeping in the boat), your only real option is to stay at Le Zahir de l’Île, a fairly small hotel by the beach.
Day 4 - Back to shore
After your last dive, it’s time to say goodbye to your incredible crew.
Ask them to drop you at Eden Lodge, a fantastic ecolodge completely isolated from everything built by humans. You’ll stay in a very fancy tent, a few meters away from the beach, enjoying the only thing you might have slightly missed on the boat: a little bit of room for yourself. The hotel is fully powered by solar energy and deeply respectful of the environment and the local population in every aspect, including the materials used for its construction and the workforce’s hiring - most employees come from the little villages in the areas, for which the hotel has built several schools and hired their teachers.
At Eden Lodge, as you can see, it’s just you, this beautiful beach, and the forest behind you (also featuring some beautiful baobab trees!). Take the rest of the day to relax and explore the unique area surrounding the hotel.
Day 5 - Nosy Tanikely and its unforgettable coral reef
Ask the hotel to organize this day trip for you - the beautiful Nosy Tanikely is only 40 minutes away by boat and totally worth it! The island is certainly going to be more crowded than Eden Lodge’s beach, but it’s absolutely beautiful and the coral reef is gorgeous. If you snorkel around, you’ll very likely bump into sea turtles, rays, and small sharks.
Head back to the hotel and have another amazing relaxing night there. The restaurant food is great and we guarantee you’ll sleep amazingly.
Day 6 - On the way to Tsarabanjina
This is going to be quite the trip. You’ll need to hop on a boat to Nosy Be, then on a car to Manga Soa Lodge. You’ll likely have the opportunity to chill by the pool of this cute hotel waiting for the boat to Tsarabanjina. Now, prepare yourself - the arrival in Tsarabanjina island is almost moving - the shades of blue of the water are absolutely jaw dropping and the island itself is just a little corner of paradise in the middle of nowhere. You’ll love it.
Spend the rest of your day trying to get used to so much beauty, including one of the 25 suites you’ll be staying in. We recommend you book one of the North suites, as they are slightly above the beach, more private, and North beach itself is a little bit longer.
Day 7 - Snorkel and relax
Enjoy your day exploring this incredible island and snorkel everywhere you feel like! The water is incredible and full of marine life - if you’re lucky you can spot rays, turtles, and even leopard sharks!
Day 8 - A last morning in paradise and a beautiful long trip
Enjoy one last morning in paradise. Explore the island, have a wonderful breakfast, go for a dive - whatever makes you happy! You have a pretty long trip ahead of you.
The trip to your next destination - the incredible mer d’Emeraude - is composed by: a first boat from Tsarabanjina to Nosy Be, a second boat from Nosy Be to Ankify Port, a long car ride from Ankify to Ramena Beach (close to Diego Suarez). All of this can be organized by Tsarabanjina. While the trip is incredibly long and tiring, you’ll be able to observe remote regions of Madagascar’s inland and be amazed by its unforgettable colors.
Once you arrive at Ramena Beach (probably right before sunset), the trip is almost over. However, the last bit of the transfer is waiting for you, and it’s by far the most surprising. You’ll hop on a tiny sailing boat with no engine and sail through emerald waters to your hotel in 45 minutes. We swear - this is going to be just a jaw dropping experience! If you have time, however, we recommend stopping on the way to have a chance to experience this area of Madagascar a little bit more in depth.
Welcome to Mazavaloha Resort, paradise of kite surfers and home to the most crystal clear, emerald waters you have ever seen in your life! The hotel is built on a cliff and every room has a unique view over the bay. You’re once again completely isolated and far from any other human settlements, besides a couple of small villages nearby.
Day 9, 10 - Kite surfing on pure emerald
First things first - Open your eyes and open the curtain. This is the view from your bed! Welcome to Mer d’Emeraude (emerald sea).
It’s time to have breakfast and head to the activities center, down at the beach, and sail towards a completely isolated beach, from which you’ll unbox your kite, hop on the surf, and start having fun! The wind is usually fairly constant, and allows for a brilliant class for beginners as well.
Usually the hotel guests head back to have lunch and then relax at the hotel or hike around it, but if you like staying at the beach like us, you can ask to have a lunch box and remain there on your own, snorkel around and enjoy these incredible waters for the whole afternoon. Just let the hotel know that you’d like to do this the day before.
Day 11 - Sainte Marie, here we come!
After an early breakfast, get ready for another quite long trip - after going back to Ramena Beach via sailboat, you’ll drive to Diego Suarez’s airport. From here you’ll take a first flight to Antananarivo, and a second one to Sainte Marie. The flight needs to be purchased separately, even if they are operated by the same airline - Tsaradia. If possible, give yourself some time between one flight and the other, as Tsaradia is not famous for being the most punctual airline in the world.
That said, our experience was fantastic - the planes are picturesque and the incredible, ever changing Malgasy landscapes make flying over the Country absolutely amazing!
Welcome to Île Sainte Marie, a tropical paradise off Madagascar's eastern coast, beckons with pristine beaches, crystal-clear lagoons, and vibrant coral reefs. Once home to pirates, today is a tranquil island where a traveler can dive into its incredibly authentic life. If this isn’t enough, during the Northern Hemisphere summer, the island is also a hotspot for humpback whales during their migration.
After landing in Sainte Marie, the hotel will send somebody to pick you up at the tiny airport and drive you (for literally 30 seconds!) to the reception. Nestled in the very south of the island, Princesse Bora is by far the best hotel in Sainte Marie. It features only 20 villas, keeping the vibe reserved and relaxing.
Take the rest of the day to relax by the pool and take a stroll along the pristine beach!
Day 12 - Looking for the Queen of the Ocean, the Humpback Whale
Have a fantastic breakfast in Princesse Bora’s restaurant, head to the pier and lay down in those fantastic sun beds, overlooking the channel between “Big Island” (Madagascar’s main island) and Sainte Marie. Pay attention and, in the middle of the morning, you’ll start seeing whales jumping out of the water and the classic water sprays all over! When that happens, we suggest you hop on a kayak, and start paddling in their direction. You’ll be able to get pretty close (but of course keep a safe distance, they’re huge animals!) and enjoy their company for a while.
You’ll likely be able to find mother whales with their calves, who usually dive closer to shore!
This is going to be one of the most incredible shows you’ll ever witness - We promise! After paddling so much, you’ll likely be tired and hungry. Have a wonderful lunch and enjoy a fantastic massage at the hotel’s spa. It’s not only beautiful, but also incredibly cheap!
Have a wonderful lunch and enjoy a fantastic massage at the hotel’s spa. It’s not only beautiful, but also incredibly cheap! Try the unforgettable 4 hands massage.
What next, if not sipping a wonderful margarita in front of this sunset? We frankly cannot imagine a more amazing end of the day.
Day 13 - Tour de Sainte Marie…. by bike!
Wake up early and (goes without saying, after a phenomenal breakfast), go to the reception - The hotel provides bikes to tour the island with! Sainte Marie is truly the perfect place to bike around - It’s a 12 kilometers narrow strip of land, featuring only one paved road. Start pedaling toward the north - You’ll fall in love with the colorful, slow life of the locals, who will look at you curiously - Not many people decide to bike around the island, actually. Enjoy everything around you - We have never fallen so much in love with a place through a bike ride.
Once you get to Ambodifototra, the biggest village on the island, leave the bike and take a stroll! Walk through the colorful market (you can get nice fabrics!), and along beautiful colonial buildings. Stop for a coffee in one of the many cafés along the main road, and have a chat with the friendliest locals you’ve ever met!
If you feel like it, keep pedaling toward the north - Every turn of that one paved road is a marvelous view. I mean.. Look at this!
On your way back, you can leave the main street and venture on secondary dirt roads as much as you’d like - The island is absolutely safe! There are several interesting shops, but one is simply unmissable. We are talking about the legendary Chez Bonanie, a craftswoman - or an artist - who makes all sorts of objects with rush. Her shop is itself a masterpiece. It’s impossible to leave empty handed!
Once you’re back, enjoy some relaxing time, snorkel around the beautiful reef in front of the beach (or why not, go for a dive!). Aperitivo and dinner are waiting for you!
Day 14 - Île aux Nattes and its paradise
After (as usual) a beautiful breakfast - We recommend an omelette! - it’s time for a half a day or day trip to Île aux Nattes (a beautiful tiny island next to Île Sainte Marie’s Southern shore). You don’t need to organize anything in advance, since it’s so close to the hotel. You can go in two different ways:
Walk or bike to the end of the Sainte Marie (3 minutes by bike and 15 by foot), and take a small rowing boat to cross the small channel of water separating the two islands. If you go by bike, you can just drop it off by a palm tree - Nobody is going to steal it! Otherwise:
Take the kayak directly from the hotel’s beach, and start rowing! It will take you between 20 and 35 minutes, depending on how fast you go and on how strong the wind and the current are.
We tried both ways, and frankly, they are both incredibly fun!
Once you get there, you’ll very likely be entirely on your own at the beach, in this surreal, perfect landscape. You can relax, go for a swim, keep exploring the island by kayak, or even have a stroll inland! There is a tiny village in the middle of the island, which you can visit.
This is what it looks like!
After such a beautiful day, you can hit the spa one more time and enjoy your last evening in Sainte Marie!
Day 15 - On the way to the Capital!
Enjoy one last morning in paradise before heading to the airport - While checking in for your flight, take a window seat. While taking off, you’ll have a chance to see hundreds of whales from your window - an incredible view you’ll never forget!
Once in Tana - as everyone calls the Capital - check in your hotel. We recommend:
Hotel Résidence Lapasoa - A historical building (from the end of 18th century). This boutique hotel offers 11 rooms, some of which are located in a more recent wing of the structure. We recommend you book one of the more traditional ones - They simply give a more authentic vibe. It’s ideally located to tour the city and it serves a fantastic breakfast.
La Varangue - Another boutique hotel featuring old parquet floors with antique furniture and objects. More lux than Lapasoa, and with a peculiar, interesting taste to it. The courtyard of the hotel is filled with antique cars, which makes the entrance to the building unique. The restaurant is absolutely worth a dinner.
Tana is for some reason usually overlooked by travelers. Like every Capital, we believe, it holds many truths of the Country. Moreover, while being a bit noisy, polluted, and not always safe, it’s a buzzing city, full of interesting places to check out.
Enjoy your first dinner in the city at our favorite restaurant - Le Citizen.
Day 16 - Exploring the beauties of Tana
If you like shopping local stuff, this is the perfect day for you! After a full breakfast at the hotel, hit the road and head to Analakely Market - You have probably never seen a place like this - You can find anything you can possibly want. From home utensils, to clothes, to handmade accessories, to groceries and, of course, the world famous Malgasy spices!
Start your visit from the pavillons - A semi indoor area of the market where you can find traditional hand made clothes and accessories. Spend some time walking around this rather tranquil area - When you like a dress, a shirt or any other clothing object but it doesn’t fit perfectly, feel free to ask the tailor for an alteration. Depending on your ask, they might fix it in only 15-30 minutes!
Have fun looking around the market - Around this point you’ll find all the stands selling spices - Our advice is to choose one and buy all the spices you’d like to bring back from the same seller. That way you’ll be able to negotiate a lower price! If you keep walking towards this point, you’ll find many incredible fabrics shops, one after the other.
These were the fabrics we picked by the end of the day, but the choice is literally infinite. Have fun!
After this incredible session of shopping, stop at La Ribaudière for a regenerating lunch (and to sit for a minute)! It’s only a few minutes walking away. Their specialty is the raclette, if you’re up to it!
After lunch, the walk continues. Get on Arabe Andrinampoinimerina, the main road leading you from Analakely Market to the next destination, the crafts market Pochard. While you walk, it’s going to be an unforgettable people watching experience. In fact, this road is crossed every day by tens of thousands of people going shopping or simply walking around!
After certainly picking up some beautiful crafts at the market, head to the most famous Malgasy chocolaterie - Robert! Have a cake or hot chocolate - Whatever you pick, your most chocolat-y dreams will come true. On your way back, swing by Gare Soarano, the city’s old train station, which hasn’t been in use for decades, but still features its beautiful art déco appearance. After a well conducted renovation, it’s now hosting a few shops, including a café, where you can relax for a minute and escape the hustle of the city.
Walk along the beautiful Avenue de l’Indépendance and visit two galleries/shops - Les Jocondes and Roses et Baobab.
After such an exciting day, relax for a moment and enjoy a wonderful, French style dinner at La Varangue’s restaurant. If you’re into cocktails, their bar is also worth a mention! Otherwise, if you feel like going outside, try Le Petit Verdot, another famous French restaurant.
Day 17 - The last few sights of Tana before leaving the “Big Island”
Enjoy one last Malgasy breakfast before taking a cab to the Royal Palace, also known as the Rova. While the beautiful 19th century building was poorly renovated after a wildfire, the view from around the building is absolutely stunning. The Rova sits on top of the City’s highest hill, and from there you can observe the entire city!
Head downhill to Madagascar’s photography museum. This small building offers you a fantastic glimpse into the Country’s position between tradition and modernity, with its usually interesting temporary exhibitions. A mandatory stop after your visit is the Café du Musée, where you can have a coffee, a quick bite, or a full lunch. If you’re staying one more night, you can also dine here.
Sadly, it’s now time to head back to the hotel, pack, and head towards the airport for your return flight. We hope you enjoyed this unforgettable trip with EC’s tips and, as usual, we are here to create your own personalized itinerary!
Bon voyage!
Our practical suggestions for you
How long: 14 days minimum for Northern Madagascar - 3 weeks if you want to venture South as well.
Season: From June to September is ideal. Favor August-September if you don’t want to miss the incredible show of the thousands of humpback whales crossing in front of the East Coast. November is ideal if you want to have the unique opportunity of spotting whale sharks around Nosy Be!
How to travel through the country: Depending on where you’re going and what your itinerary will be, you’ll move by car, boat or planes. Unfortunately, the roads’ conditions don’t allow for a car rental or any autonomous movement. Always book your flights ahead of time - Domestic flights are scarce and fill up quickly.
Practical advice:
Unless you’re lucky enough to have 3-4 weeks to spend in Madagascar, stick either to the North or the South. The Country is huge and not well connected.
Don’t drive by yourself: it’s almost impossible to find a car rental and the roads’ condition is so bad that you’ll need a driver.
Don’t plan too tight itineraries as - since the roads’ conditions are far from ideal, it will take you hours to cover fairly short distances.
Choose the North if you’re more into beautiful beaches, sea wildlife and relax, whilst the South if you’re more into amazing landscapes, nature and discovering the villages.
